Dondero: Lenten food doesn't have to be boring

Mardi Gras, or "Carnival," is past. Ash Wednesday begins the traditional Christian 40-plus day period of prayer, penitence and piety that was to spiritually prepare the believer for Easter.

In the old days, both the Eastern and Western branches of Christianity imposed strict food observances on their adherents during Lent. They recognized that food is so basic to human existence that to have to do without really gets our attention.

The old fasting and abstinence rules banned meat, eggs and dairy products during Lent and restricted total quantities of food allowed.

The Eastern Orthodox tradition continues those and even stricter requirements. Roman Catholicism retains several symbolic elements.

Although coming from outside the Lenten fasting traditions, Asian cuisines offer several wonderful dishes that can meet even the strictest requirements.

Thai cooking, a favorite in my family, is based on seafood rather than meat and doesn't use dairy products. Yet absolutely vegetarian Thai savory dishes are unusual.

But here's a very Thai-tasting curry that is not hard to make and is totally vegan. I adapted it for a cooking class for a group that followed that strict vegetarian diet.

Yellow curry is as close to an Indian curry as Thai curries get. In fact its name in Thai - Gaeng Garee - literally means "curry" curry. Nonetheless the Thai influences are still strong. Normally, chicken or fish would be the central ingredient.

Be sure to use "garee" curry paste, not "yellow sour" curry paste for the dish.

Thai curry pastes with the brand name "Mae Sri" do not contain the fermented shrimp paste that is traditional in Thai curries. "Thin" soy sauce is a vegan substitute for traditional Thai fish sauce. Curry paste in 4-ounce cans, the sauces, lemon grass, and Asian basil are available at

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